Essential Guide to Tailoring: Structure & Shape
Alison Smith
Class Preview
1:40
- In-depth Instruction; over 115 mins
- On-demand video access anytime
- Bonus downloadable PDF resources
- Access to class Q&A
Introduction to Tailoring
12:20
Meet Alison Smith, the United Kingdom's premier teacher of dressmaking, tailoring and corsetry. Alison discusses tailoring fabrics and the anatomy of a tailored garment. See how traditional tailoring has evolved to include speed tailoring and a hybrid variety, depending on fabric and garment.
Traditional Tailoring
20:08
Begin learning about traditional, canvased construction for garments such as jackets. Alison reviews the types of canvas and where they are used, then demonstrates how to cut out pattern pieces in canvas, mark and sew a bust dart and attach your canvas to the fabric with padstitching.
Creating Shape
18:39
Use a herringbone stitch to secure the edges of the canvas to your fabric and a basting stitch to hold the shape. Alison shows how to encourage the lapels and collar to roll properly by adding finer padstitching behind them. Steaming helps set the shape.
Tapes for Final Shaping
16:18
With Alison's guidance, stabilize a jacket's edges, neckline, armholes and roll line with cotton tape. You'll see how to use steam to match the tape to the canvas edges, even around curves, and how to miter it at corners. You'll secure the tape with hand-stitching.
Modern Tailoring Methods
20:44
When you don't have time for extensive hand-stitching but still want a tailored look, modern tailoring with fusible interfacing might be just your speed. This method is fast, and suitable for fabrics with a looser weave. Alison shows you how to cut out and fuse, then reinforce with fusible tape.
Hybrid Tailoring
16:33
Hybrid tailoring is a simple alternative suitable for coating fabrics and high-end menswear. It features fusible interfacing and stabilizing tape on a jacket front and collar, and canvas with machine padstitching at the shoulders. Allison demonstrates this method with tips for pressing and shaping.
Variations & Additional Interfacing
10:03
Alison explores silhouette variations you might encounter in your tailoring projects and how you might interface them. Review interfacing options for a shawl-collared and collarless jacket, a tailored skirt and trousers. You'll be eager to start building your own tailored wardrobe!
Bring structure and shape to any tailored garment with online video lessons from School of Sewing founder Alison Smith! You’ll start by learning classic tailoring techniques such as canvassed construction for jackets and more. Alison will also teach you how to stabilize and shape a jacket’s edges, neckline, armholes and roll lines. Move on to modern tailoring methods for using fusible interfacing with looser-weave fabrics to build elegant garment structure swiftly. Then, discover hybrid tailoring techniques that make it easier than ever to achieve refined results when sewing coating fabric or high-end menswear. Plus, discover how to interface a variety of different silhouette variations, from shawl-collared and collarless jackets to tailored skirts and pants.
Alison Smith
Alison Smith is the United Kingdom's premier teacher of dressmaking, tailoring and corsetry. She is the first person to receive the award of Member of the Order of the British Empire for services to sewing and corsetry! Alison runs the School of Sewing and is the author of the best-seller "The Sewing Book," with more than 300,000 copies sold worldwide, as well as "Dressmaking Step by Step." Alison participates in many sewing shows and writes regularly for sewing magazines.
Bonus materials available after purchase